Fall 2022 - Travels in Lazio, Umbria and Tuscany
Torre Alfina
photo: mytravellinglens.com
This was a very interesting morning. The castle is contained by the Medieval village. Located about 50 km from out house in Castel Cellesi, it was an easy photo outing. One of the many villages holding the status i borghi piu belli d’Italia (most beautiful villages) and it deserves the designation. The town and castle overlook the Paglia River valley with the mountains of southern Tuscany in the distance. One of the aspects of the town that set it apart from others is the extensive public art installations literally around every corner. The castle was close when I was there, as it was early in the morning, but I did get a chance to walk through the gardens. It is in beautiful shape.
Sutri
photo: mytravellinglens.com
Sutri is an interesting and attract time. We loved our time here. It is located about an hour from Castel Cellesi, about 63 km south and we visited it on our way. The modern town has less than 5,000 people but the big sights are the ancient remains. They include a Roman amphitheater, Etruscan necropolis with rock-cut tombs, and the crypt of the church of the Madonna del Parto. We spent out time in the historic centre and it has tons of ambiance. There are remains of the ancient city walls built of great rectangular blocks of stone, with gateways that permitted entry to the town. I could not get into the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta to see the crypt with its 20 different columns. All around town are ancient monuments and inscriptions, lots of architectural details and embellishments.
Soriano nel Cimino
We did not make it to this town, but it is on our list for another trip. A few miles from Viterbo, here Lazio, Umbria and Tuscany Regions meet. The massive Orsini castle stands above the houses of the old historic village. During the medieval era Pope Nicolas Orsini built the castle around the tower that had already served as a defensive lookout for centuries. The castle, a summer papal residence, provided great benefit with the presence and the patronage of the wealthy Popes and their friends. Then, over the centuries Soriano nel Cimino was passed, a prize, among popes and nobles. Narrow, meandering streets of the medieval core are surrounded by more classical, open street plans and palaces of the Renaissance era. Palazzo Chigi-Albani is a ordered Renaissance palace adorned with a decorative, sculpted fountain fed by spring water. It was built in the 1560s. The cathedral dedicated to St. Nicolas is topped by a wide dome. The little temple of St. George rests outside town and is a rustic stone chapel emblazoned with angels and Christian symbols.
Antica Monterano
photo: mytravellinglens.com
As I walked through one of the old gates, I just knew this would be a very interesting morning. The ruins of this town are located about 80 km south of Castel Cellesi, on the east side of Lago Bracciano. There are various parts of the church and monastery standing. In the first half of the 17th Century the city of Monterano was at its height, Emilio Bonaventura Altiera, Pope Clemens X commissioned Gian Lorenzo Bernini to build many works for Monterano.
Find Canale Monterano and then follow the signs to the Nature Reserve. It is a narrow road with rocks on both sides of the road. Don't worry about how you will get out as there is a different road for in and out traffic. When you reach the open space park your car and it is about a short walk to the historic area.
Antica Monterano
photo: mytravellinglens.com
It was neat to walk through the remains of the impressive church and monastery.
Montecalvello
photo: mytravellinglens.com
I enjoyed the drive and the walk about the old, still privated lived in medieval castle. It was originally built between 774 and 776 by the Lombard King Desiderioi. Fortifications etc were added in the 13th Century. Many changes of ownership but the most recent was in 1970 it was sold to art painter Balthasar KIlossowski de Rola who lived there till his death, and the castle passed on to his son. The castle is privately owned but parts of it are the village include the the courtyard and the church.
Simply park your car in the town, walk through the short gallery that leads you inside the castle into the churchyard of the parish church of Santa Maria. Then you can turn left and walk between the main buildings to arrive at a beautiful fountain.
Ronciglione
We had a difficult time finding a place for lunch. But when we drove through the town of Ronciglione places were open. Although our lunch was not memorable due to terrible service and so-so food, the town was scenic as there is a valley that runs through with the buildings of the historic section hanging off the sides. In 2023 this town joined the association of the 348 "Most Beautiful Villages in Italy".
